Category Archives: General

Musings and storytelling

Unknown but remembered

I had the good fortune this past month to be in London. On a visit to Westminster Abbey, this bell caught my eye, hanging near the grave of the unknown warrior. “HMS Verdun” brought to mind an inherited piece of jewelry, a gold cross that came to me on the death of my father’s cousin’s wife, May Patterson.

“It’s a cross made from the wedding rings of her first marriage,” Dad said. “He died in WWI.”

The cross is heavy — solid gold, it would seem — and bears the inscription Verdun, France, 1918. At first, I wondered if he’d died at sea somehow? Had the HMS Verdun sunk? Back home, I dug deeper. No, the HMS Verdun didn’t sink, it was chosen to carry the remains of the unknown British warrior from France across the English Channel to his final resting place at Westminster Abbey. According to Wikipedia, here’s why:

Verdun was selected to carry the Unknown Warrior across the English Channel because her name would be a tribute to the French people and the endurance of their armies at Verdun in 1916.

1916? Then how had May’s first husband died at Verdun in 1918? On Wikipedia, I clicked on Battle of Verdun, a terrible siege from February 21 to December 18, 1916 the longest battle of the war. Two years later, in the fall of 1918, the tide turned. The American First Army troops had entered the war and joined the French Fourth Army in attacking the Germans “on a front from Moronvilliers to the Meuse on 26 September 1918.” The offensive put the German army in retreat, the beginning of the end.

From previous research, I’d learned May’s full name: Ada May Bowden Herner Patterson. Now I searched for a male Herner married to a female Bowden in Ohio on Family Search, where I discovered a marriage certificate: Leslie Herner married May Bowden on the 23rd of April, 1918. Five days later, he entered into service as an Infantryman in the U.S. Army. So sad. They had just five days together as husband and wife. A search for — “Leslie Ray Herner” 1918 obituary — on Google turned up the rest:


from Roster of Cuyahoga County Soldiers, Sailors and Marines Wounded in Action, Killed in Action, Died of Wounds [or] Gassed.

Leslie was 29 years old at the time of his death. May turned 29 a month later. Thirteen years later, she married again but remain childless. She outlived her first husband by 58 years. Leslie Ray Herner is not an “unknown warrior.” His cross stands in the graveyard of the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery and Memorial. Still, it feels important to remember, albeit 105 years later, their sacrifice and loss, like that of so many other unsung heroes.

Yonder in the pawpaw patch

NEWS FLASH: It’s pawpaw season.

Huh?! If you’re anything like me, you may never have heard of the pawpaw. Growing up in Ohio, I may have been around pawpaw trees plenty of times but not recognized them for what they were. The existence of pawpaw trees, and the late summer season when they bear edible fruit, only blipped onto my radar in 2018 during my history research of the Northeastern states.

At the time, I was planning a bicycle trip on the C&O Canal Trail and Great Allegheny Passage Trail. (My blog posts about that trip start here.)

A section of the C&O Trail in Maryland passes through the Paw Paw Tunnel. What a strange name, I thought. Reading up on it on Wikipedia, I learned the following:

The Paw Paw Tunnel is a 3,118-foot-long (950 m) canal tunnel on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (C&O) in Allegany County, Maryland. Located near Paw Paw, West Virginia, it was built to bypass the Paw Paw Bends, a six-mile (9.7 km) stretch of the Potomac River containing five horseshoe-shaped bends. The town, the bends, and the tunnel take their name from the pawpaw trees that grow prolifically along nearby ridges.

Pawpaw trees? I was curious enough that, while bicycling through the region, I asked a local bicyclist what she knew about pawpaw trees, although with little success. (She had next to nothing to say on that subject, but was quite garrulous regarding Christ her savior.)

I’ve since learned the pawpaw tree bears an edible fruit in the end of summer and early autumn. By happenstance, right about now. It’s good timing, therefore, that Belt Publishing has just released The Pocket Pawpaw Cookbook by Sarah Bir. From the website:

What’s a pawpaw you ask? It’s a fruit, and also a challenge, locus of folklore and desire. A variant of the “custard apple” family, pawpaws exude a tropical air but grow wild north of Florida, east of the Mississippi, and south of Canada … They are fleshy and awkward to to eat, sweetly fragrant, and do not travel well at all. They are beloved by foragers, keepers of regional food traditions, and anyone seeking relief from the industrial food chain.

Shortly after my copy of the book arrived, I flew off on a short visit to southern Ohio for a couple of days of research and time with family. I read the book cover to cover on the plane. It’s a delight. And in a mysterious synchronicity, while in Ohio I managed to finally see a pawpaw tree with the fruit ripening on its branches. FYI, if you happen to be yonder in the pawpaw patch, the 23rd Annual Pawpaw Festival is happening September 17-19 in Albany, Ohio, where you can apparently enjoy all things pawpaw.

Coming this summer – two worthy international conferences

Historical Novel Society North America 2021 conference

I’ll be presenting at the June 21-27 Historical Novel Society North America Conference, a full week of online activities where attendees can learn, share, connect, and inspire. Over 80 panels, presentations, and cozy chats, plus master classes, author spotlights, book clubs, conversation rooms, and social events. You can also sign up for agent pitches, query critiques, and the Blue Pencil Cafe. My topic is “All Is Not Lost: Making the Most of your Research.” Click here for the full program of events and offerings. Registration is now open.

2021 International German Genealogy Conference

Coming in July: International German Genealogy Partnership (IGGP) conference. I be presenting two talks: one on “Explore the Rhineland Palatinate,” the other — “Following the Trail: Emigrant letters of the 19th Century” with my German colleague Angela Weber. Held online in real time July 17-24, presentations will also be available to watch at home at your convenience for the next six months, through December. This conference is the third one offered by the IGGP. They’re well organized and have a great line up of offerings. Don’t miss out! Registration deadline May 1.

Why is Ohio called the Buckeye State?

Since moving to the Northwest, I’ve found a number of friends who, like me, hail from Ohio. One is Heidi, who not only shares my Ohio origins, but also my interest in genealogy (and yoga). A while ago, Heidi gave a talk at Seattle Genealogical Society about the history of Ohio, the Buckeye State, at which time she passed around “buckeyes,” a delicious peanut butter and chocolate dessert (click on the link for the recipe).

Growing up in Ohio, it was fun to collect and play with buckeyes, but they were inedible as a nut, and seemed to my inexpert botanical eye as pretty useless. Boy, was I wrong.

While researching about early settlers to Ohio and the landscape they found, I came across the Historical Collection From Columbiana and Fairfield Township, in which Ray Hum explains reasons why Ohio is called the Buckeye State:

The buckeye, whose Indian name was “hetuck,” meaning “the eye of the buck,” was indeed a friend to the pioneers. Growing in the richest soil, it proved easiest to clear. When the first log cabins were hurriedly erected, the lightness and softness of he wood made it invaluable to the settlers because of the shortage of labor and tools.
… Sugar was unknown in[the Ohio] region, and residents relied on the sugar maple for sweetening. Here, also, the buckeye proved its usefulness. Not only did it grow side by side with the sugar maple, but it also furnished the best wood from which the evaporating troughs could be made.
Hats were made from its fibers; trays for pone and Johnny cake, the venison trencher, the noggin, the spoon and white bowl for mush and milk were carved from its trunk.
The buckeye, because of its slow burning, was considered unfit for fuel. But it was used as a backlog for the cabin fires. When it was finally burnt, it produced more alkaline than any other wood. The bark, prepared properly, was said to be effective in the cure of ague and fever; but, if improperly prepared, it proved to be a violent emetic.
In the absence of soap, the buckeye was an able substitute. The inner covering of the nut, when grated, was found to be soapy. When the powder was washed, large quantities of starch could be obtained, which, in case of famine, could be used as food. But the water used for this washing holds in solution a medicinal agent which, if swallowed, proves poisonous.
Of all the trees in the woods, none is so hard to kill as the buckeye. The deepest girdling does not kill it, and even after it is cut down and its logs are used to build cabins it will send out young branches — telling all the world that buckeyes are not easily conquered.
The abundance of the buckeye tree, the luxuriance of its foliage, its richly colored nuts, and its adaptability to the needs of the early settlers readily explain why Ohioans are called “Buckeyes.”

We think we’re so smart

When researching for history details in pre-photography days, I’m always on the look out for paintings. Take the Husking Bee, Island of Nantucket, by Eastman Johnson, which I came across when browsing around the Art Institute of Chicago.

Husking Bee, Island of Nantucket, 1876 by Eastman Johnson

The picture offers great details of community farming life in the 19th century, and also a bit of folk history. I had permission to snap this photo, without flash, and I also photographed the interpretive sign next to it, which has this cool detail. “[The artist] carefully included a woman discovering a red ear of corn, which, according to folk tradition, would allow her to kiss the person of her choice.”

I thought of this painting and its colorful glimpse of life in former days recently when reading Letters from America by James Flint. The book gives a first person account of the author’s walk from the East Coast to the U.S. interior in 1818, the things he observed along the way, the people, the climate, the farming methods, the terrain. On September 28, 1818 while passing through Ohio, James Flint writes: “The Indian Corn is nearly ripe, and is a great crop this year. The stalks are generally about eight feet high. The people have been picking the leaves off this sort of crop, and setting them up between the rows in conical bunches, to be preserved as winter food for the cattle.” (Flint, Letters from America, pp. 41-42.)

Instantly, I pictured our modern use of bundled cornstalks as Halloween decorations, and wondered if farmers also feed cornstalks to cattle. Apparently, it’s not standard practice. In our “modern” times, the winter diet of choice for cattle is generally hay. Only recently has the method of cornstalk grazing made a come back. About ten years ago, the website drovers.com published an article about it, Cornstalks for Cow Feed Is a No-Brainer. “University of Illinois researchers found that feeding co-products and cornstalk residue in the winter can save cow-calf producers up to $1 per day per cow compared to feeding hay. Grazing cornstalks is arguably the best cost-saving strategy Midwestern cattlemen can deploy.” And the practice not only saves money. When there’s a hay shortage like the one in 2012, it can also save the lives of horses who must have hay to survive.

These disconnects crop up (sorry) surprisingly often. It bemuses me, how researchers have gone to a lot of trouble to “discover” what cattle drovers knew centuries ago. And we think we’re so smart.

Ah yes, Hogmanay, the Scots’ New Year’s Eve celebration

Drawing by Hartley Ramsay, from “A Skinful of Scotch” by Clifford Hanley

When it comes to looking into history, “expect the unexpected” is my common refrain. Take Thanksgiving. Wasn’t that holiday always celebrated, since the birth of our nation, on the fourth Thursday of the month? Wrong. I’ve written a couple of posts on that, here (Thanksgiving Cockfights), and here (“We were not the Savages”).

Then there’s Christmas. While researching for my new novel set in part in the Highlands of Scotland, I’ve discovered that Scotland in the Reformation Era did not celebrate Christmas. Huh?! Weren’t they Presbyterians? Yes, in their own way. The Scots were most bitter toward Catholicism, and saw Christmas as a “Papist” holiday, hence, no yuletide cheer and feasting and presents. An article published in The Oldie, explains:

Things were done differently in Scotland. Our [Scottish] Reformation came to us from Geneva, and we drank the pure water of Calvinism. Anything that smacked of Papist idolatry was banned. Anything for which there was no scriptural authority was out of order. No celebration of Christmas, after the Nativity itself, is recorded in the Bible. Therefore there should be none in Scotland. Accordingly it was forbidden, along with the other feasts of the Roman Church.

Apart from anything, Christmas encouraged jollity, and jollity was suspect, feasting an invitation to sin. In any case the Presbyterian Kirk then, and for a long time after, paid little heed to ‘gentle Jesus, meek and mild’. [From “The Oldie” article, January 2016, “How Scotland Discovered Christmas”]

The subhead of The Oldie‘s article begins: “Children in Scotland used to wait till Hogmanay for their presents …” Hogmanay?!?! What the devil is that? Duh. Hogmanay is a New Year’s Eve custom that goes back hundreds, if not thousands, of years. And it’s … ahem … quite different than you might expect.

First of all, you don’t drink, at least not at first. Instead, you clean. That’s right, *clean.* It’s called “Redding the House.” Traditionally, Scots did not drink a drop on New Year’s Eve, but scoured the house top to bottom instead. That is, until the stroke of midnight, when the doorbell rings, a signal the new year is here with the arrival of the first foot, hopefully a tall dark and handsome one. First foot?! The custom goes like this:

“After the stroke of midnight, neighbors visit each other, bearing traditional symbolic gifts such as shortbread or black bun, a kind of fruit cake. The visitor, in turn, is offered a small whisky – a wee dram. … If you had a lot of friends, you’d be offered a great many wee drams. The first person to enter a house in the New Year, the first foot, could bring luck for the whole year to come. The luckiest was a tall, dark and handsome man. The unluckiest a redhead and the unluckiest of all a red-haired woman. And, in case you’re wondering why a red-haired woman is the unluckiest, just remember that Viking raiders first brought fair hair to Scotland. And if a Viking woman was first to enter, she would surely be followed by an angry Viking man. Whatever your gender or the color of your hair, don’t go first footing without a gift for your hosts …” by Ferne Arfin, from “5 Scottish Hogmanay Traditions You Probably Never Heard Of Celebrations, Fire Festivals and Hospitality Welcome the New Year”

Aye, a wee dram. Don’t mind if I do.

In the book A Skinful of Scotch (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1965) author Clifford Hanley writes about Hogmanay with poignant hilarity.

“The Scots have always been early bedders and none of your night-club nonsense, [so Hogmanay] has always been the one night of all when the nation has a licence to be up turning night into day … In theory, this is the time when every Scotsman re-discovers his love for the whole of humanity, and the theory works well enough. What often makes Hogmanay memorable is the way our frail natures break down…” at which point Hanley follows up with a number of humorous examples. His final story is about the time he and friends celebrated Hogmanay at a ski lodge.

“An atmosphere of painful excitement burgeoned as the hours ticked away [to midnight], because the guests included a great mob of bright, healthy young schoolteachers from the North of England, spending their very first Hogmanay in the land that invented it. … Everything started on this quiet, reverential note [of producing bottles and ceremonially exchanging drinks], which is correct. As each member present insisted on a round from his bottle, the little group grew noisier and more creative. Athletic people, carried away with bonhomie, stood on their hands. Non-pianists tried a tune on the baby grand. Ancient tunes were dredged up from the collective unconscious. … And so, with many a song and frivolity, we were set to wheel the night away, when some of the keen young English teachers — all in their early twenties — came timidly through the door, and were welcomed in the true Hogmanay spirit by being offered a drink. Some of them didn’t take it, and a human being is entitled not to drink. But steeped in tradition as we were, we all noticed simultaneously that whether they drank or not, none of them had caught on to the infrangible rule that you bring a drink with you.”

Other traditions at Hogmanay, written and unwritten, endure, but in the spirit of ringing in 2021, I’ll mention just one more — the singing of “Auld Lang Syne.” That’s right, the song is Scotland’s own, the most well-known version written by Robert Burns.

Happy New Year!!

Sacramento German family connections

I’m spending these three days (June 15-17) at the International German Genealogy Conference in Sacramento, California, having a great time sharing stories about the Rhineland-Palatinate, about the special wines from the Palatinate/Pfalz region, and about the importance of writing down our family stories for those who follow.

On arrival at the Hyatt Regency Sacramento, I passed this historic display in the hallway harking back to the time period of 1848-1858 when the California Gold Rush brought thousands from around the globe to dig for gold in the hills.

The sight jogged my memory, and I realized I have a distant ancestral connection to this place. According to one of my family letters, approximately 160 years ago my great-great grandfather’s uncle Jakob Handrich voyaged to this very town to seek his gold fortune. John Rapparlie described the journey in a letter to German relatives.

Cleveland 8 December 1858
Much loved brother-in-law and sister-in-law,
I can’t keep myself from writing a few lines to you about how it goes with us. We are, thanks to God, all still quite healthy like we are here, but we don’t know how our brother-in-law Jakob is in California. I have received a letter from him … on October 18, that he was in Sacramento Sutte but is still without work and he wanted to go from there to the gold digging places and try his luck there. He also wrote to me that because he doesn’t like it there and he doesn’t have an opportunity to work in his profession [blacksmith] he will want to see us again soon, that is, approximately within two years.
It may be the case that Jakob is very lucky as very many from here have become rich people, but it could also be the case that we will never see Jakob again. These are the words he wrote to me: “Dear brother-in-law, I am enormously far away from you and don’t know yet if I will be able to shake hands with you again or not,” and so on.

At the Fort Sutter Museum here in Sacramento one of the exhibits is a blacksmith shop. It’s fun to imagine my 3x-great uncle roaming these same streets so long ago. Little did he know a descendant of his would one day come to this place bearing a book that mentions his Gold Rush days. You just never know.

The Ship of Gold: Fortune’s fool

In this morning’s paper, I sat down to an article in the Seattle Times that began “Few have heard of the SS Central America. But it has a place in history because of what happened over three days, beginning on Sept. 9, 1857.”

I’m one of the few. I first heard of the SS Central America, the “Ship of Gold” when researching the life trajectory of my German immigrant ancestor, Michael Harm for my historical novel The Last of the Blacksmiths. Michael Harm arrived in Cleveland, Ohio in July of 1857 to begin a blacksmith apprenticeship with his uncle, and two months later, due to the sinking of the SS Central America, which contained gold intended to back federal paper money, the economy went belly-up. The Panic of 1857 initiated a slump in the U.S. economy that lasted several years.

The sinking of the SS Central America, it turns out, ruined more lives than the 425 people who drowned, the failed businesses, etc. Today’s article is the story of how lives are still being ruined, even in 2019. The book Ship of Gold In the Deep Blue Sea (1998), by Gary Kinder, recounts the original sinking of the SS Central America in 1857 and its consequences, and also treasure-hunting efforts in the Atlantic that occurred from 1986-1988. But it’s not until this year, 2019, that those 13 treasure hunters, “most from the Seattle area,” have finally concluded lengthy court battles and earned a fraction of their find.

They were the engineers, technicians and owners of high-end sonar equipment who were promised a small share of the wreck’s bounty in return for their work, which found the Central America in 1988, some 160 miles off the South Carolina coast, 7,200 feet down on the ocean floor.

It took nearly 30 years of litigation and reams of legal documents before a court settlement got them at least a portion of what they were owed. The last of two payments arrived in February.

Full article in The Seattle Times.

The leader of the expedition apparently absconded with $50 million, suffered a failed marriage, and is now in federal prison.

Trouble in this tale includes the main visionary in the treasure hunt – a man named Tommy Thompson, now 66. He sits in an Ohio federal minimum security prison because he won’t divulge where 500 new gold coins struck from the Central America’s bounty have been hidden.

There’s a life lesson here. We seem bound to allow material things to wreck us. Even Ship of Gold author Gary Kinder, who took ten years to write his book, lost his father and his brother to death during those years, and his mother suffered a series of strokes and had to enter a nursing home. Kinder also mentions in his Acknowledgements that his “daughters have hardly known [him] when he was not working on ‘the book’.” Kinder sums up that these things were “all teachings of the bitter lesson that while we are tending relentlessly to one part of our lives, the other parts do not stand still.”

It strikes me as a reflection of how we survive here, a reminder to appreciate what we have, and just maybe, to focus less on material gain and more on quality time with loved ones.

Americana and other delights

The bike trip is over now, but fond memories linger. Along the C&O and GAP bike trails, several diners displayed entertaining signage. A few of my favorites:


In Cumberland, Maryland, I passed by and peeked into the window of Ned’s Barber Shop (closed until further notice) and was wowed by the decor:

Lastly, in this little book on the coffee table at the Allegheny Trail House B&B, the collection of thoughts on bicycling were delightful, just a couple of which I offer here.

Progress should have stopped when man invented the bicycle. — Elizabeth Howard West

The Bicycle is a curious vehicle. Its passenger is its engine. — John Howard

It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and can coast down them. — Ernest Hemingway

Saying farewell to the C&O

In Cumberland, MD, Angela and I said farewell to the C&O Canal Trail. So are we done with our journey? Oh, my no. We’re over a week in, and we’ve only reached the halfway point.

Next up, the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Trail out of downtown Cumberland, pedaling northwest to Frostburg. Eight miles by car, a steady sixteen miles uphill by bicycle.

Oh, you’re thinking, that’s bad.

No, that’s good. The journey is twice as long to keep the grade of incline at one percent. A slog, but doable. Feel the burn.

And soak up the scenery. Along the way we passed by the Cumberland Bone Cave where skeletal remains were found dating back 200,000 years, to the Pleistocene Era.

On one stretch we spotted four or five quite enormous wild turkeys (they’re fast, so they got away before we could take photos) who left large three-toed tracks in the cinders reminiscent of dinosaur footprints (or maybe the bone cave had captured our imaginations?)

Every so often along the way, we happen upon an interpretive sign that peels back a layer of history. A sign positioned before the valley view of Mt. Savage informed us:

The Community of Mt. Savage … was originally referred to as “Arnold’s Settlement” in about 1780. The Arnold family had established themselves here … along an old American Indian trail west. … The settlement served as an overnight stop for travelers moving westward to the Ohio River.