Category Archives: Freinsheim and Palatinate history

More birds – the European stork

Last year when I was visiting Freinsheim, Germany, my cousin said to me: “The people here are upset because the storks don’t come any more.”

Since the European White Stork was not familiar to me, I did not fully grasp what Angela was telling me. I stumbled upon the significance of these birds since my return. The enormous, twiggy nest of the storks is welcome and encouraged on German rooftops, as storks bring good luck, fertility and prosperity. It is believed storks protect a house from fire. Like cats in the barn, storks feed on rodents, so keep down the vermin population. It was once thought storks had human souls.

A write-up on the European White Stork can be found at the Smithsonian National Zoological Park web site. Apparently, the disappearance of the storks in Freinsheim is one instance of a much larger problem.

The overall population of White Storks has declined steadily over the last half century. The decline in Western Europe has been the most pronounced. Pollution, pesticides and wetlands drainage have severely reduced suitable foraging habitat across the breeding range. Storks no longer breed in southern Sweden, Switzerland, western France, Belgium or southern Greece. In The Netherlands the number of breeding pairs has declined from 500 in 1910 to 5 in 1985. Denmark was home to 4000 pairs in 1890, but only 12 in 1989. Captive propagation and reintroduction efforts have been hampered by their tendency to produce overly tame birds, which over-winter in Europe without migrating normally.

In the 19th century storks were so plentiful, their broad wingspans darkened the sky as they migrated north from African shores. Another “melioration of the climate” (à la James Fenimore Cooper) changing our lives in ways we don’t even realize.

Lyrical obscurity

A song that is formative for one generation becomes lost in obscurity for the next. That is the way of things, Grasshopper. (If you’re wondering, “Grasshopper” references a 1970’s TV program called “Kung Fu.”)

I visited Freinsheim, Germany last year at this time, to see my relatives, to do research, and to experience the Weinwanderung, a 7-mile culinary and wine-tasting hike through the vineyards. It’s awesome! This fall’s Weinwanderung dates are September 23-25. If you can swing it, you should definitely go.

Another memorable event during my trip last year was a meeting with Roland Paul (google translate link: click on “Autor”), Research Fellow and Deputy Director of the Institute for Palatine History and Folklore in Kaiserslautern. He has compiled the largest migration file index in Germany.

As we talked, I told him the working title of my thesis, which was “Something to Tell About” based on the quote by Matthias Claudius: “Wenn jemand eine Reise tut, so kann er was erzählen.” (When someone goes on a journey, then he has something to tell about.) Dr. Paul nodded perfunctorily. “Yes, yes,” he said. “This is a very popular quote in Germany.” Yet from my side of the Atlantic, I had come up with something pretty obscure.

The same thing happened when I mentioned the many immigration songs and poems. Dr. Paul nodded, waved his hand with a flourish. “Yes, Konrad Krez and so forth.” It hit home again, how what is so well known in one place or time can be so quickly forgotten in another. For general posterity, therefore, I post a poem by Konrad Krez, a moving ode to the immigrant’s journey (this version comes from the reprint of Jacob Mueller’s Memories of a Forty-Eighter (1896), translated by Steven Rowan).

Renunciation and Consolation
by Konrad Krez

I dreamed in my youth
Of the roll of drums, the blare of trumpets,
Of the clatter of swords and the fire of muskets,
Of heroism and immortality,
And sick with fever I raised my hand
To pluck garlands from the tree of fame,
I burned for deeds to mark
My trail forever in the sand of time.

It drove me to foreign zones,
My hills were too flat at home,
The valleys too narrow, the Rhine a brook,
I wanted alps, seas and waves.
I wanted to defy storm and hurricane,
See the splendor of the tropics with my own eyes,
Head west, to the new Canaan,
And plant corn and wheat on the Ohio.

And everywhere, wherever I came and went,
I found an ache, no land was so lonely
That I did not find there the way of care,
Even where no tree would grow, there was still distress,
Whether you go South or North,
East or West, to all the winds,
You will always find the same password,
The care of labor and work.

The same struggle for daily bread,
Which does not deserve to be so hard earned,
Awaits you on the Hudson as on the Rhine,
Your rights include suffering everywhere.
And if you, through long years of effort,
Pile up riches, where will a whole heap
Of gold buy you a physician who knows a way
To buy back even a day of youth?

To be sure you might be tempted to travel
The raw path of fame, to raise
A monument against forgetfulness, spiting envy with
Eternal praise by means of a famous deed;
Yet soon your ambition, your drive for fame
Will sink its wings with satiety,
When you spy the gates which beckon
When you go to drink of immortality.

And if one kingdom was once too small for you,
Soon an acre of land will do,
A protecting roof, a log in the fireplace,
To be happier with wife and child
Than a tyrant whose whims pass through wires
To the limits of the earth,
But whom not even a subservient senate
Can resolve to heal him of death.

Even if your burden presses and bends you,
And even if your heart distresses you,
Be consoled that life is not long,
And the path you have to go is short.
Then comes death and knocks on your door
As he did for your father,
Arriving like an old friend of the family,
And later he will visit your children.

He speaks to you: My friend, you have dreamed,
Fought and worried, now it is time
To rest, your bed is ready,
I have arranged a private house for you.
You will obey and expel your breath into the wind.
Whether grass or marble covers your grave,
On it is written: Vain are
Things, and life is but a shadow.

Old-time drinking and thinking

I am descended of “keepers,” people who held on to belongings long beyond their usefulness. Or so I used to think.

As I’ve spent the last couple of years researching my great-great grandfather, I’ve made discoveries of some of his belongings. In fact, these days I possess a small “Michael Harm museum”: mid-nineteenth letters and photographs, a gold heart necklace he purchased for my grandmother, and this beer stein, which I recently picked up from my brother’s house. (Thanks, Craig.) How do I know the latter once belonged to Michael Harm? Because of this bit of paper tucked inside.

For my German side of the family, Michael Harm was our “point of entry” to America. Perhaps this is why there appears to have been a cult of reverence around the man. When I was child, my grandmother and my father were still telling stories about Michael Harm’s Atlantic voyage and Cleveland carriageworks, more than one hundred years after he made the journey, and sixty years after the Harm & Schuster Wagons and Carriages had closed its doors for good. His daughter Lucy drew this painstakingly detailed portrait of him (left), poster-sized and framed, based on this photograph, an honor not bestowed on any other member of the family.

Michael Harm may have been attached to his beer stein, but he hailed from the Palatinate, the southern Rhineland region. Wine country, that is. When my relatives visited from that region of Germany last spring, they brought me this gift, a replica of an old “Freinsheimer Krug,” or wine-drinking jug.

An old object for the shelf, no longer of use? Think again. Before disposable plates and cups, how did we manage? Apparently, people used to carry around their own crockery. Some cultures still do this today. In the 1990s, I had the privilege of being a guest at a Makah Native American Potlatch at Neah Bay. In addition to the generous custom of gift-giving, the respect for tribal elders, and the moving dances and songs, what struck me about the gathering was how all the Makah families brought baskets containing their own tableware–plates, cups, silverware. When the potlatch was over, they packed up their dishes to bring home and wash. It seemed a laudable, sustainable way of living, a way to keep trashbarrels (and landfills) from brimming over with paper plates and cups and plastic eating utensils.

At the time, I wondered why my own culture did not do this. Now I realize, in the not-so-distant past, it was how things were done. It may be an old-time way of thinking but it’s good enough for me.

We now pause for Cleveland German immigrant data interpretation

I have been listing the immigrants to Cleveland, Ohio, who lived long enough, or stuck around Cleveland long enough, to be listed in an anniversary edition of the Cleveland German newspaper “Wächter und Anzeiger.” The list goes through the start of the 1860s, and I will continue to type up the remaining years in future posts. In the meantime, there are several things I’ve figured out in my research that I want to share.

First, the immigrants listed in these posts are part of what is considered the “first wave” of immigration. (The “second wave” of over a million German immigrants in the U.S. occurred from 1865-1879, the “third wave” nearer the turn of the century, and so on.) In 1848, the immigrants to Cleveland listed total nine names. In 1849, they number twenty, over twice as many. It could be argued this is an example of chain migration, where first one family member arrives, and others follow, but only Müller of Alsenz seems to fit in this category. Other influential factors:
–In 1848, the California Gold Rush began. Perhaps some of these immigrants are part of this rising tide (by 1854, four times as many German immigrants to Cleveland are listed as in 1848).
–In 1848, starting in France in March, democratic revolutions swept across Europe, and many in the German-speaking areas (and Hungary, Austria, France, etc.) were forced to flee.
–By the early 1850s, transatlantic steamship crossings were more common, shortening the westward journey to around two weeks. However, in reality, most immigrants still traveled on sailing ships called “packets,” a crossing lasting around 40-50 days.
–Manufacturing: due to the steam engine, factories were driving many out of age-old trades like shoemaking and blacksmithing
–Farming: there had been almost a decade of lean years of bad harvests and crop failure (potato rot).
–Religious persecution: the faith of the prince of a duchy dictated the religion of its citizens. The U.S.’s constitution, declaring freedom of religion, was irresistible, to Catholics in some regions, Protestants in others, and across the board, to Jews.
–In most of these German-speaking regions, a man was not permitted to marry if he did not have property, a living, or craft guild membership.
–In the south and west, rising population increased economic pressure.
–Shipping companies bringing tobacco and sugar and other goods from the Americas conducted marketing campaigns to fill their cargo holds with paying European passengers for the return voyage.
–In Europe, the citizens paid taxes to the princes, dukes and kings. In the U.S., there were no taxes.

Second, note that these immigrants listed are mainly from a certain area of the German-speaking regions. This data follows national trends. In Stanley Nadel’s Ph.D. thesis on New York City’s Kleindeutschland, he notes: “Despite the slight lull during the revolutionary years of 1848-1850, the rising wave of emigration after 1843 carried nearly one-and-a-half million Germans to the United States before it broke over the rocks of depression and civil war in America. … The U.S. Census report for 1850 gives us a good idea of the origins of this wave of immigrants. Two-thirds of the German born residents of the United States were from the states of south and west Germany. Another 15% can be assigned to the Prussian Rhineland, making for a majority of over 80%.” (p. 35)

The devil you say

The Haardt Gebirge in Germany, the Haardt mountains near Bad Duerkheim, feature a Celtic megalith up in the hills. It’s called the Teufelsstein — the Devil’s stone — and it’s situated near the Limburg Abbey monastery. According to The Megalithic Portal , the stone was once a sacrificial altar. When I visited Germany last October, I did not have a chance to visit the Teufelsstein, but in the early 1800s, James Fenimore Cooper visited it, and wrote about it, in his “Legends of the Rhine”.

The Devil’s Stone was described as a natural rock … on which the Pagans had offered sacrifices. … [The legend goes] that when the pious monks were planning their monastery, a compact was made with the Devil to quarry the stones necessary for so extensive a work, and to transport them up the steep acclivity. The inducement held forth to the evil spirit for undertaking a work of this nature, was the pretence of erecting a tavern, in which, doubtless, undue quantities of Rhenish wine were to be quaffed, cheating human reason, and leaving the undefended soul more exposed than usual to assaults of temptation. … Completely deceived by the artifices of the men of God, the father of sin lent himself to the project with so much zeal, that the Abbey and its appendages were completed in a time incredibly short; a circumstance that his employers took good care to turn to account, after their own fashion, by ascribing it to a miracle of purer emanation. By all accounts the deception was so well managed, that notwithstanding his proverbial cunning, the Devil never knew the true destination of the edifice until the Abbey-bell actually rang for prayers. Then, indeed, his indignation knew no bounds, and he proceeded forthwith to the rock in question, with the fell intent of bringing it into the air above the chapel, and, by its fall, of immolating the monks and their altar together, to his vengeance. But the stone was too firmly rooted to be displaced even by the Devil; and he was finally compelled, by the prayers of the devotees, who were now, after their own fashion of fighting, fairly in the field, to abandon this portion of the country in shame and disgrace. The curious are shown certain marks on the rock, which go to prove the violent efforts of Satan, on this occasion, and among others the prints of his form, left by seating himself on the stone, fatigued by useless exertions. The more ingenious even trace, in a sort of groove, evidence of the position of his tail, during the time the baffled spirit was chewing the cud of chagrin on his hard stool.

James Fenimore Cooper, from The Heidenmauer; or, The Benedictines, Philadelphia: Carey & Lea–Chestnut Street, 1832.

Goethe! draws a crowd

I make it a habit to scan the Seattle International Film Festival titles for German language movies, and the one I saw yesterday afternoon — “Young Goethe in Love” (original title, Goethe!) drew a sell out crowd. Apparently the Saturday showing sold out as well.

The film captures the year 1772 admirably. I gobbled up the historic minutiae, the carriages and clothing and three-cornered hats. The acting is also terrific. In line before the film, I enjoyed meeting a University of Washington Germanic Languages major. In the theater, I sat next to a woman from Frankfurt who belongs to a German literature club. Before the film, the literature club woman expressed her surprise that so many people had heard of Goethe. She was also skeptical about whether or not they could make a film about “The Sorrows of Young Werther” that was not cliche or trite. Afterwards I asked her what she thought.

“They did very well, weaving the life of Goethe in with the themes of Werther, managing to bring out the irony.” Yes, indeed. I, too, give it a thumbs up.

By guess and by gosh

I have been warned against researching at this late date in my thesis-writing. It is wise advice.

Sometimes I can’t seem to help myself. I found this latest gem by guess and by gosh.

In a letter from 1869 written by my great-great-grandfather, I have gone over this passage dozens of times without any idea what he’s talking about:

My business partner Ernst Butler asks you through me if you might, very soon after receiving these few lines, pick 1/2 of a large scoop (Schoppenglas) of unripe nuts (maple?), dry these but not in the sun but in the air, and occasionally send them into this country.

My cousin and translator Angela inserted the (maple?) comment, neither of us sure what he was talking about. This morning, on an impulse, I searched “maple nuts Germany” and found my way to beech nuts. Based on the information at this website called “On the Table” I think I’ve solved the mystery.

Or maybe someone has another idea?

The Robbers

by Theodor Hildebrandt in the Alte Nationalgalerie in Berlin

At last, I’ve read Schiller’s “Die Räuber” – “The Robbers” – (1780). I wonder if Theodor Hildebrandt was thinking of Schiller’s play when he painted this painting, “The Robber,” in 1829.)

“Die Räuber” was Friedrich Schiller’s first tragedy (and how!), performed in Mannheim in the late 18th century. When “Die Räuber” was first performed “the effect was said to have been so great that members of the audience embraced one another out of happiness, emotion, enthusiasm, incapable of resisting their rapture.” (Jacob Mueller, in Memories of a Forty-Eighter, p. 40)

Mueller claims “Die Räuber” was the first serious theater performed by German Americans in Cleveland, Ohio. The performance took place in 1852. Mueller states (somewhat superciliously):

“The American artistic taste of that day had not advanced much beyond minstrels and bare-back riding … In the social and political arena, in the courts and even on the pulpit, one could see splendid examples of dramatic and comic art, in all the simplicity of the manners then. It might have been the fear of competition which led many to see professional theater as something sinful which should not be allowed to establish itself.
“It hardly needs to be mentioned that there is no German tradition hostile to the theater, but if such had existed, it would have been silenced by a work as popular as “Die Räuber,” since young and old knew the play, or at least some of its interesting characters. … Those amateurs who were to play the roles of the robbers, including the Capuchin and pastor Moser, were like all disciples of drama in suffering both shortage of money and a chronic excess of thirst. This cost [the director] Stieger all the more because thirst raised its head at every rehearsal, demanding to be drowned by spirited means. When thirst was ignored during rehearsals, to save money, it was no good. Even by the second act the tongues of the actors seemed to stick to their gums …”

I had read this review before reading the play, so as I toured the theater exhibit at the Heimatsmuseum in Bad Dürkheim, I asked the curator about “Die Räuber.”

“It’s a difficult play,” I said, “for an amateur company to put on, isn’t it?”

Dr. Preuss smiled. “It was very often performed, but many theater companies felt Schiller’s original was too long, so they staged an … abbreviated version.”

In this politically subversive oeuvre, one brother betrays another, and the betrayed leads a gang of robbers to attack lords of manors who are robbing their subjects. As the book jacket of my Penguin Classic sums it up, “The Robbers” is “concerned with freedom: with man’s attempt to spread his wings and fly, to be the arbiter of his own destiny, even to change the world in accordance with his own designs.”

One of my favorite lines from the play, spoken by Moor: “The law has cramped the flight of eagles to a snail’s pace. The law never yet made a great man, but freedom will breed a giant, a colossus.”

How did the Clevelanders end their play? By singing a chorus of a song of the robbers: “Ein Freies Leben Führen wir” (We Lead a Life of Liberty) – a rousing rendition in which the audience joined in.

The third renaissance

When I started writing my thesis, I had no idea how many “heavyweights” lived in the early nineteenth century.

When I first looked for thinkers, writers, artists, and musicians of the times, Goethe and Schiller emerged from the get-go. But the big names just kept piling up.

The Cleveland German Cultural Garden honors only a few of these 19th century German VIPs: Father Jahn, Humboldt (Alexander, and there was also his brother, Prussian education system brainiac Wilhelm), Goethe, Schiller, Heine, Lessing, Beethoven, Bach … “Oh wow!” I thought, standing there among the statues.

Before long, I had also added Mendelssohn, Schubert, Kant, Hegel, Marx, Engels, and Nietzsche to the list. (“How do you keep it from becoming … ponderous?” a friend asked. Ha! My concern is whether great-great-grandfather, rural farm boy turned Cleveland blacksmith, even knew these scholars and artists shared space with him on the planet.)

I can’t help but explore this stuff, like a pilot flying over the Nazca Lines and trying to make out vague shapes in the desert tundra.

What a treat it was to come across Peter Watson’s book The German Genius. Published in 2010, the early chapters are a compendium of the kind of thing that keeps drawing me to the nineteenth century mindset. The stuff about Pietism in particular was a real forehead smacker.

The idea of doubt, that humans are self-directed, not God directed, emerged as a movement in the late 18th century. The “Third Renaissance, between Doubt and Darwin,” Watson claims, occurred around the years 1697 (Essay Concerning Human Understanding – Locke) and 1859 (Origin of Species – Darwin), when all of the above Germans, and many more, greatly influenced the progress of civilization.

“Oh wow!” I’m thinking (again). Watson examines scientific and social discoveries, advances in education and exploration, the Prussian-dominated world and “separatist” position of Germany in Europe in those years, yet it feels to me like he left something out. Nowhere (so far) have I come across mention of the great “Auswanderung,” the emigration of millions upon millions of Germans from the fatherland in the nineteenth century. A disconnect that has me wondering …

Real and Unreal

Genealogical data is a good leaping off point, but as I work on a novel-length account of my ancestor Michael Harm, I often get caught in a realm between fact and fiction, where the line between them blurs, and where the real can seem the most unreal of all.

Facts about my great-great grandfather Michael Harm exist in city, county and church records, in ship’s registers and in primary source letters he wrote in the 19th century. Birth, marriage, travel, and death, plus a few stories thrown in to give me clues. But the true substance of Michael Harm’s life exists within the “human context”*, the web of relationships of the people around him, who defined who he was and whose lives he influenced in turn. (FYI, I picked up this concept of “the human context” from Stevick’s Theory of the Novel.)

How do I reconstruct this web? If there ever were maps to the treasure, they have long since disappeared. I do count myself extremely lucky to have some letters from the mid-nineteenth century, letters that mention names such as the Reibolds who have a Weinbergsgarten in Freinsheim to this day. The name Pihrmann also appears in the letters — as I bought apples from a street vendor under the Pihrmann sign, I wondered about the man before me. Were his ancestor and my greatgreatgrandfather friends over 150 years ago? It seems unreal, but also quite plausible.

In an article by Freinsheim historian Otto Klamm: “Freinsheimers wanderten nach Uebersee aus: Zumeist gingen sie ohne die Genehmigung der Obrigkeit,” (“Freinsheimers emigrated overseas: Mostly they went without permission of the authorities”) I came across a familiar name: the family of Michael Hoehn, who departed Freinsheim for the U.S. in 1858. Herr Hoehn was “accompanied by his wife and five children. A son of 21 years, another of 17, daughters ages 23 and 15 years, and … a little daughter of three years.”

Michael Hoehn is a familiar name because in my research I’ve learned a Michael Hoehn and my greatgreatgrandfather traveled to Freinsheim together in 1893. Michael Hoehn wrote an account of their journey, in a letter he sent to the family when the two of them had arrived back in Cleveland. Because Michael Harm and Michael Hoehn appeared to be the same age, both with young children, I assume the Michael Hoehn who wrote the letter must be one of the two sons mentioned above. I further imagine these two sons, who as Klamm writes, left “without permission of the authorities,” were avoiding conscription in the military. In those days many young men of the Rhineland-Palatinate emigrated rather than face conscription in the armed forces of the Bavarians.

Otto Klamm closes his article about these emigrants as follows: “Their fates are long gone, only mentioned in our list as numbers. And yet these were once caring, troubled and hopeful people. I wonder if the descendants of today remember the plight of their forefathers?” If Otto Klamm were alive today, I would be glad to tell him: the answer is YES.